Stretch Lace Fabric: How to Sew It
Stretch lace fabric is lace knitted with elastane (similar material used in Spandex or Lycra), which gives it the give that ordinary lace lacks and makes it far easier to wear and to sew. It can be fun and funky or elegant and refined depending on the pattern and fibre, and it suits everything from tees to lingerie to swing coats. It is genuinely easy-care, provided you keep it away from heat, with expert tips from sewing instructor Shannon Gifford.
What is stretch lace fabric?
Stretch lace can be fun and funky or elegant and refined. The fibers in stretch lace can vary, but almost all of the stretch laces include the stretch factor of elastane. This stretchiness opens the door of opportunity to sew these fabrics into a wide variety of garment styles. You'll love the easy care, easy sewing, and great look of stretch laces!
Pretreatment
Machine wash, cold water, or hand wash. Machine dry, cool setting, or lay flat to dry. This fabric is truly easy care, but do avoid high heat from dryers or irons.
Needles and thread
Use a stretch needle, size 75/11 for seams. For double-needle hems, use a stretch 2.5/75 needle. Cotton/polyester or all polyester threads are the best choices.
Interfacing
Because of the highly textured surface of lace, and the open areas also involved, a sew-in interfacing will likely be your best choice. Use a stretch mesh/netting fabric, or silk organza cut on the bias, to retain the sheer appearance of the open areas of the lace.
Seams, seam finishes and hems
Stretch stitches such as zigzag (2.5 length, 2.0 width) and triple/stretch stitches are the best choices for working with stretch laces. Hems can be stitched by hand or by machine. Use a stretch stitch or a twin needle (2.5/75) for machine hems.
Stretch lace does not ravel, so a seam finish is not necessary. Also, a binding will likely interfere with the stretch of the lace. If you must finish your seams, use a serger (3 thread, balanced stitch), a cover stitch, or fold the seam allowances to one side and topstitch with a twin needle. Trim away excess fabric after topstitching.
What to make with stretch lace
Tee-shirts, tanks, turtlenecks, skirts (with linings), cardigans, swing-style coats. Smooth-surfaced stretch laces are excellent choices for lingerie.
Creative possibilities
Use your stretch lace as an accent fabric with a coordinating onionskin or buttermilk knit. This is also a great use for leftover pieces of stretch lace. Or, for a super-trendy outfit, make a skirt of your stretch lace, and line it in a contrast color lining, matching the lining to an embellished sweater or top.
Care: keep it away from heat
Elastane (Lycra & Spandex included) and heat do not marry well; avoid high heat of any kind with stretch laces. Set your iron at "nylon". Also, do not use chlorine bleach when washing fabrics containing elastane.
More on lace and open knits
See the main lace fabric guide for lace in general, and the guides to power mesh and stretch mesh for other open, stretchy fabrics that sew the same way.
Shop stretch lace
Browse the knit fabrics collection at EOS, and the linings and interfacings you'll want underneath it. Back to all fabric care guides.
FAQ
What is stretch lace fabric?
Lace knitted with an elastane so it stretches. The base fibre varies, but the elastane content is what separates it from rigid lace.
How do you sew stretch lace?
Use a 75/11 stretch needle and a stretch stitch — zigzag at 2.5 length by 2.0 width, or a triple stretch stitch. It doesn't ravel, so seam finishes are optional.
How do you hem stretch lace?
By hand, or by machine with a stretch stitch or a 2.5/75 twin needle.
Can you wash stretch lace?
Yes — cold machine wash or hand wash, cool dry or lay flat. Avoid high heat and never use chlorine bleach, which destroys elastane.
Do you need to line stretch lace?
For skirts and dresses, yes. Lingerie and accent panels are often left unlined. Use a sew-in stretch interfacing rather than a fusible so the open areas stay sheer.