Brocade Fabric
Satiny fabric with floating designs in shiny thread - could anything be more elegant than brocade? This beautiful, dramatic fabric is timeless in its appeal. Brocade is a richly decorative woven cloth whose raised, often floral or scrolling patterns are formed by extra (supplementary) weft threads woven into the base on a jacquard loom, frequently in contrasting or metallic colors that catch the light. The result is a structured fabric with a patterned face and longer thread "floats" on the back. Traditionally woven in silk and long associated with formalwear, today it also comes in silk blends and synthetics. Garments made from brocade can range in formality from eveningwear to casual tops - and it's surprisingly easy to sew, with expert tips throughout from sewing instructor Shannon Gifford.
Characteristics
Structured and substantial, with a defined right side (the patterned face) and looser thread floats on the reverse. Brocade frays readily at cut edges and often carries a directional or repeating pattern that needs matching across pattern pieces. Many brocades include metallic threads, which affects how much heat the fabric can take.
Types of brocade
- Silk brocade - the classic, with a soft sheen and the most luxurious drape; pairs naturally with EOS's silk range.
- Floral and patterned brocades - the most common decorative motifs; plan for pattern matching.
- Metallic brocades - woven with lame or metallic threads; beautiful, but heat-sensitive, so test before pressing or fusing.
How to sew brocade
Pretreatment
Dry clean only. Avoid machine washing, which can pull and pucker the seams.
Needles & thread
Use size 10 universal or quilting needles for construction. Cotton, cotton-covered polyester, or all-polyester thread are all good choices; silk thread works beautifully too.
Seams, seam finishes & hems
Construction: standard straight seams at 2.0-2.5 stitch length.
Seam finishes: clean-finish with a 2- or 3-thread overlock. No serger? Bind the seam allowances with coordinating satin binding - or, if you're up for it, use a fell seam to fully enclose the raw edges (brocade frays, so enclosed seams wear best).
Interfacing
Sew-in interfacing is recommended. Use silk organza, batiste, or flannel, depending on the effect you want - crisper or softer. (Avoid fusing on metallic brocades, which can be heat-sensitive.)
What to make with brocade
Evening wear, jackets, shawls, dresses, tops, straight or straight-ish skirts, pants, loungewear, and coats. Keep silhouettes relatively simple and structured - the fabric is the statement.
Creative possibilities
Pair brocade with beads, trim, lame, fringe, or braid for a truly opulent look. For a deeper dive on matching patterns and cutting a brocade jacket, see our layout & cutting brocade tutorial.
Shop & related guides
Browse EOS's woven fabrics, and for silk brocade see the silk fabric guide. Back to all fabric care guides.
FAQ
What is brocade fabric?
Brocade is a decorative woven fabric with raised patterns - often floral or metallic - created by supplementary weft threads on a jacquard loom. It's structured, luxurious, and traditionally made from silk.
How do you sew brocade?
Use a size 10 universal or quilting needle, straight seams at 2.0-2.5, and enclose or overlock the seam allowances since brocade frays. Use sew-in interfacing rather than fusible on heat-sensitive metallics.
What needle do you use for brocade?
A size 10 universal or quilting needle for construction, with cotton, polyester, or silk thread.
Can you wash brocade fabric?
Brocade is dry clean only - avoid machine washing, which can pucker the seams.