Double Knit Fabric: Sewing Guide & Tips

Double knit fabric is a medium-weight knit constructed with two interlocking sets of thread, giving it a more stable, structured hand than single-layer knits — making it one of the most beginner-friendly knit fabrics to sew.

What Is Double Knit Fabric?

Doubleknit is woven with two sets of interlocking thread, which produces a fabric that is stable, holds its shape, and has a clean finish on both sides. Common fiber contents include rayon, wool, cotton, and synthetics — each with its own distinct feel and care requirements.

  • Cotton & wool doubleknits have the texture and feel of a comfortable sweater.

  • Rayon doubleknits can be produced with the buttery-soft feel of cashmere.

  • Synthetic doubleknits mimic natural-fiber knits with easier care properties.

In some cases, the wrong side of the knit has a heathery appearance due to the use of a lighter color thread; the right side color is visible through this lighter thread — a design detail you can use intentionally.

How to Pretreat Double Knit Fabric

Your pretreatment method depends on fiber content:

  • Cotton and wool doubleknits will shrink in hot water. Pretreat by handwashing, or use the delicate cycle with cold water. Lay flat to dry.

  • Synthetic doubleknits often machine wash beautifully — test a small sample with cold water first. Lay flat to dry.

Needles and Thread for Double Knit

Use a 75/11 stretch needle with polyester or cotton/poly thread. The stretch needle prevents skipped stitches and fabric damage along the seamline.

Seams, Seam Finishes & Hems

On a conventional sewing machine:

  • Use a stretch stitch or a small zigzag (2.5 length, 2.0 width) to maintain the fabric's stretch.

  • Hem with a stretch twin needle (2.5/75).

On a serger:

  • Use a 3-, 4-, or 5-thread balanced stitch.

Coverstitch machine: Double knit is an ideal fabric for a coverstitch — professional-looking hems with full stretch retention.

Interfacing for Double Knit Fabric

Some garment areas — necklines, button bands, waistbands — may need interfacing for reinforcement. Always use a knit interfacing so the fabric retains its stretch.

  • For most applications, choose the lightest weight possible, such as Lightweight Tricot Fusible Interfacing.

  • For areas needing more strength, choose Bias Knit Fusible Interfacing.

  • Cut interfacing on the same grain as the pattern piece, with the stretch of the interfacing matching the stretch of the fabric.

  • Use dark interfacing for darker colored knits to prevent show-through.

Pattern Suggestions for Double Knit

Double knit is versatile. It works beautifully for:

  • Cardigans, hoodies, and unstructured jackets

  • Tanks, tees, and simple skirts

  • Pull-on hats and scarves

  • Unstructured pants (choose a classic fit to prevent strain)

Creative Techniques with Double Knit

Use the wrong side as a design feature. Stitch seam allowances wrong sides together, press the seam open from the outside, and fold the seam allowances under on each side. Topstitch, coverstitch, or zigzag in place. Or cut a pocket flap with the wrong side facing front for a tonal contrast.

Felt your wool doubleknit. Wool doubleknits felt beautifully. If you plan to felt, purchase more fabric than your pattern requires — felting will reduce the yardage significantly.

 

Doubleknits are a pleasure to sew. Try one, and you'll be hooked!

 

Frequently asked questions

What needle should I use for double knit fabric?

Use a 75/11 stretch needle for double knit fabric. Pair it with polyester or cotton/poly thread. The stretch needle is designed to pass through knit loops without breaking the fibers or causing skipped stitches, which is a common problem when using a standard sharp needle on knits.

Does double knit fabric shrink?

Cotton and wool doubleknits will shrink if washed in hot water, so always pretreat before cutting. Handwash or use the delicate cycle with cold water, then lay flat to dry. Synthetic doubleknits are generally more stable — test a small swatch with cold machine washing before pretreating the full yardage.

What interfacing should I use with double knit fabric?

Always use a knit interfacing with double knit fabric so the garment retains its stretch. For most applications, So-Sheer (the lightest weight) is the best choice. If you need more structure — for a waistband or button band — Fusi-Knit provides additional support without killing the stretch. Cut interfacing on the same grain as the pattern piece.

What can I make with double knit fabric?

Double knit is one of the most versatile knit fabrics for garment sewing. It works well for cardigans, hoodies, tanks, tees, simple skirts, unstructured pants and jackets, pull-on hats, and scarves. For pants, choose a pattern with a classic fit to avoid strain at the seams. Its stable hand also makes it a great choice for beginners tackling knit sewing for the first time.

What is the difference between single knit and double knit fabric?

Single knit fabric is constructed with one set of needles and one layer of loops, making it lighter and more drapey but also more prone to curling at the edges. Double knit is constructed with two interlocking sets of thread, producing a thicker, more stable fabric with a clean finish on both sides and less tendency to curl — making it easier to cut and sew accurately.

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  • How to sew with rayon fabric — Spoke link to a related fiber-content guide, relevant because rayon doubleknits are specifically mentioned in the body.

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