Order of Assembly

Order of Assembly
  1. Cut jacket front, sides and back out of fashion fabric leaving 1" seam allowances on all seams and center front. Leave a 2" hem allowance.
  2. Thread trace center front, finished front edge, pocket placement, hem line, neck line, armhole and armsyce.
  3. Stay neck edges, shoulder and front fold line with stay tape.
  4. If your garment has princess seams, sew front to side front. Sew back to side back. Join center back seam if there is one. Do not sew the side seams.
  5. Add a chest shield to the front.
  6. Pin hair canvas interfacing to hem allowances and front edges. Tack in place.
  7. Cut lining leaving 1 1/4" beyond all stitching lines. Assemble lining to the same point as the garment. The center back, side back and side front seams can be sewn with 1 1/4" seam allowances then trimmed back to 1".
  8. Pin seams of the lining to the seams of the garment.
  9. Baste quilting lines.
  10. Machine quilt layers together.
  11. Baste jacket together at shoulders and side seams. Fit and adjust. Sew side seams of garment permanently.
  12. Lay front lining over side seam. Fold Back lining seam allowance back on itself and position on top of front lining along seam line. Baste. Fell-stitch seam.
  13. Fold up hem allowance. Hem garment.
  14. Make hand worked buttonholes on front of garment.
  15. Make Spanish snap buttonholes on lining.
  16. Turn back neck and front edges of garment. Baste. Catch-stitch edges to garment. (Where there is canvas in the front of the garment, catch stitch to the canvas, in the back catch-stitch to the garment.) Turn back edges of lining and baste to hold. Stitch lining to front and neck edges with a fell stitch. Pick-stitch lining. Finish lining at hem.
  17. Attach chain weight to hem by hand.
  18. Cut out sleeve. Thread trace sleeve cap.
  19. Prepare sleeve vent by adding interfacing in the area of the buttonholes. Sew seam above vent if it is a two-piece sleeve.
  20. Assemble sleeve lining as you did with the sleeve.
  21. Pin lining to sleeve along seam line.
  22. Baste sleeve quilting lines and stitch.
  23. Sew second sleeve seam in the fabric and finish sleeve lining by hand as per side seams. Make buttonholes in the vent.
  24. Baste sleeve into garment.
  25. Hem sleeves and finish lining.
  26. Backstitch sleeve to garment.
  27. Insert small shoulder pad and sleeve head.
  28. Smooth front shoulder lining over shoulder pad towards the back. Fold back shoulder seam allowance of the lining back on itself. Fell lining shoulder seam.
  29. Baste sleeve lining to armsyce of jacket.
  30. Hand-sew jacket sleeve lining to armhole lining.
  31. Prepare trim and attach to edges of jacket by hand.
  32. Prepare pockets and hand-sew to garment.