Beaded Fabric: How to Sew It
Beaded fabric oozes glamour like nothing else - and while it can look intimidating to sew, patience and good information will get you a beautiful garment. Here's how to handle it, with expert tips from sewing instructor Shannon Gifford.
What is beaded fabric?
Beaded fabric is a thin base fabric - usually silk or rayon - decorated with beads that are stitched or glued on. Because the base is delicate and the beadwork is the focus, get familiar with how the foundation fabric behaves first: read our silk guidance before you start. Prepare for some handwork - it's well worth the trouble.
How to sew beaded fabric
Pretreatment
Do not pretreat beaded fabric.
Needles & thread
Choose the needle to suit the backing fabric - usually a sharp needle, size 75/11. Test on a scrap to confirm it's right for your particular piece. Buy two full packages of needles; you'll likely break a few.
Seams, seam finishes & hems
Seams: lengthen your stitch length to approximately 3.5 for standard seams.
Seam finishes: hard to do well - you'll be much happier lining the entire garment instead.
Hems: make a faced hem. Cut a bias strip of soft fabric (satin works beautifully) about 3 inches wide, stitch it to the hem with a conventional seam, turn the facing under, and hand-stitch it at the top of the facing. Use the same technique with a 1-inch bias strip at necklines and armholes.
Interfacing
Use silk organza, sewn in by hand, for any interfacing you need. Never fuse anything to beaded fabric - heat will damage the beads.
What to make with beaded fabric (pattern suggestions)
Keep it simple - the fabric is the star. Simple dresses, jackets, and tops are ideal; avoid lots of pattern pieces, darts, or small pieces like collars and welt pockets. If you'll wear it under a jacket, use beaded fabric only for the front and a smooth fabric for the back for comfort.
Closures
Buttonholes are next to impossible. Use hand-made button loops from heavy thread, or a hand-set zipper.
Working with beaded fabric: the pro method
- Make a muslin test garment and perfect your alterations.
- Use the muslin as your pattern, thread-tracing the stitching lines onto the backing of the beaded fabric.
- Cut the pieces, then remove any beads inside the seam allowances. If beads are glued on (rather than stitched), you can crush the ones in the seam allowance by tapping them with a hammer.
- After stitching, run a bead of fray-check / no-fray along the interior of each seam.
- From the front, re-stitch any loose beads and fill bald spots by hand.
Give yourself plenty of time and stitch slowly. You'll likely break a few needles - don't be discouraged. The finished garment will be something you're proud to own and wear.
Shop & related guides
Pairs with our silk fabrics (the usual base) - see the silk collection and the fabric care guides. Working with sequins instead? See the sequin fabric guide.
FAQ
How do you sew beaded fabric?
Match the needle to the backing (usually a sharp 75/11), lengthen your stitch to about 3.5, line the garment rather than finishing seams, and make faced hems with a bias satin strip. Remove beads from the seam allowances before stitching.
What needle do you use for beaded fabric?
A sharp needle sized to the backing fabric, usually 75/11 - test on a scrap, and buy two packages since you may break a few.
How do you handle beads in the seam allowance?
Remove stitched beads from the seam allowances before sewing; if beads are glued on, crush the ones in the seam allowance by tapping with a hammer.
Can you fuse interfacing to beaded fabric?
No - use hand-sewn silk organza instead; fusing and high heat damage the beads.