French Terry Fabric: What It Is, How to Sew It, and How to Choose

French terry is the fabric behind almost every good sweatshirt, hoodie and casual dress you own — smooth on one face, soft looped on the other, and knitted rather than woven, so it drapes where ordinary toweling would just sit there. Below is what French terry actually is, how it differs from the terry cloth on your bath towels, and how to handle it at the machine.

What Is French Terry Fabric?

French terry is a knit fabric with unspun loops on one side and a smooth, jersey-like face on the other. The loops give it absorbency and warmth; the knit structure gives it stretch and drape. Because it is knitted, it moves and falls softly even at a cozy weight — which is exactly why it has replaced woven toweling in clothing.

Organic cotton terrycloth is a soft, textured knit fabric similar to toweling (but softer!). This fabric is fun to sew, versatile, and is produced without the use of dyes or chemicals. Organic terry has one smooth side, with an appearance similar to cotton jersey. The other side of the fabric has the loopy terrycloth texture. Either side of the fabric can be used as the right side, which doubles your options for versatility! This fabric is a knit, so despite the cozy thickness of the terry texture, it has great drape and softness.

French Terry vs Terry Cloth vs Fleece

• French terry — knitted, loops on one side only, smooth on the other. Stretchy, drapey, mid-weight. Sweatshirts, hoodies, joggers, casual dresses.

• Terry cloth — woven, loops on both sides, no stretch. Towels, bathrobes, beach cover-ups.

• Fleece — knitted then brushed, so the loops are cut into a soft nap. Warmer, bulkier, no loop texture.

If a fabric has loops on one face and stretches when you tug it across the grain, it is French terry.

How to Sew French Terry

Pretreatment: Prewash in hot water, and dry in a hot dryer. Cotton terry will shrink when washed; this pretreatment will help prevent future shrinkage.

Needles and Thread: Use a jersey/ballpoint needle, size 12/80, for construction. Cotton, cotton/polyester, or all polyester threads can be used for construction.

Interfacing: Your interfacing choice will depend on which side of the fabric you choose as the exterior. If you are using the smooth side of the fabric as the exterior, a sewn-in interfacing will be required. In such a case, use a thin tricot or swimwear mesh for your interfacing. On the other hand, if you are using the textured side as the exterior, you may use a lightweight fusible tricot interfacing.

Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems: Use a medium width and length zigzag for construction (1.5-2.0 width, 1.5-2.0 length). Hems can be topstitched with a twin needle, (jersey size 4.0/75) or can be finished with a coverstitch. Hems and seams should be finished. Terrycloth does not ravel, but the textured side will shed a bit at the cut edge if the edges are not finished in some manner. Use a serged edge finish, or bind the raw edges with a knit tricot (such as Seams Great).

Pattern suggestions: Casual jackets, baby wear, kidswear, hoodies, bathrobes, tees, sportswear-style garments.

Creative Possibilities

Make use of the differences in texture in this fabric: Determine which side you plan to use as the right side; this will appear on the exterior of the garment. Stitch your seams on the right side of the garment, rather than the wrong side. Turn under the raw edges of the seams and topstitch them in place. This will provide you with a unique and creative contrast in texture!

Dyeing and Painting French Terry

Should you choose to dye your fabric, you have several options. The simplest is to dip the fabric in a solution of non-sweetened drink mix (such as Koolaid). Use at least three packages of the drink mix in a gallon of water for each yard of fabric. Allow the fabric to sit overnight in the solution, then run the fabric through your washing machine with no detergent. This will provide a pastel color that will mellow and fade slightly over time. For a more permanent solution, use Procion Dye, available at www.dharmatrading.com The instructions for use are found on the Dharma website.

You may also choose to paint designs on the fabric; use fabric paints which will not have an effect on the hand of the fabric. My personal choice is the Jacquard brand; use small amounts of paint and a light touch. Be sure to set the paint using the manufacturer’s instructions. While most painting techniques are more effective on the smooth side of the fabric, you can also try applying paint to the terry side with a sponge dipped in a small amount of paint or dye. The color will be primarily applied to the loops of the terry, leaving the base fabric it’s original color. This simple technique can result in a very interesting and unique fabric!

Shop French Terry Fabric

Browse our knit fabrics by the yard and our certified eco-friendly fabrics.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is French terry fabric?

A knit fabric with unspun loops on one side and a smooth face on the other. It stretches and drapes, unlike woven terry cloth.

What is the difference between French terry and terry cloth?

French terry is knitted with loops on one side only. Terry cloth is woven with loops on both sides and does not stretch.

What is the difference between French terry and fleece?

Fleece is brushed so the loops are cut into a soft nap. French terry keeps its loops intact and is lighter and less bulky.

Does French terry shrink?

Yes. Cotton terry shrinks in the first wash. Prewash in hot water and dry hot before cutting.

Which side of French terry is the right side?

Either. The smooth side and the looped side can both be used as the exterior, which is part of what makes it versatile.

What needle do you use for French terry?

A jersey or ballpoint needle, size 12/80.

Do you need to finish French terry seams?

It does not ravel, but the looped side sheds at the cut edge, so serge or bind the raw edges.

What can you make with French terry?

Hoodies, joggers, sweatshirts, casual jackets, babywear, robes and tees.