Double Cloth Fabric: Complete Sewing Guide

Double cloth fabric is two layers of fabric stitched together and treated as one — the secret behind the clean, seamless look of high-end ready-to-wear coats, jackets, and capes.

Once you understand its construction logic, sewing with double cloth is deeply rewarding. The results are luxurious, structured, and professional. Here's everything you need to know.

What Is Double Cloth Fabric?

Double cloth (also written as doublecloth or double-faced fabric) is woven or knit as two distinct layers that are interlocked during production. Because both faces are finished, garments made from it require no traditional lining — the inner layer is the lining.

You'll find it in high-end coats, capes, hats, gloves, scarves, jackets, vests, skirts, and — in lighter weights — dresses.

Before You Sew: Pretreatment

Dry clean only. Do not pre-wash double cloth fabric. The interlocked layers can shift or distort with water and agitation. Always dry clean finished garments as well.

Needles & Thread

Use Universal needles in the following sizes:

  • 70/10 or 75/11 — for finer, lighter-weight double cloth

  • 80/12 — for medium to heavier weights

Choose the smaller needle for delicate versions to avoid leaving visible holes in the face fabric.

Seams, Seam Finishes & Hems

This is where double cloth differs most from conventional fabrics — seams and seam finishes are constructed together.

Step-by-Step Seam Construction

  1. Mark the seamline on the fabric with basting stitches.

  2. Separate the layers at the seam allowance by gently pulling them apart. Trim the connecting threads (the "hairs") with sharp scissors — do not cut into the fabric itself.

  3. Stitch the seam with right sides together, catching only the outer layers of fabric in your machine stitching.

  4. Turn under the two inner layers and hand-stitch them to cover the construction seam on the inside.

The result: a clean, elegant finish with no raw edges visible on either face.

Hems

Hems are constructed using the same method as seams — separate the layers, stitch the outer layer, then hand-stitch the inner layer to cover. Use a ½" or smaller seam allowance throughout for the cleanest results.

Pro tip: Insert piping or decorative trim into the seams before closing them for a couture, designer finish.

Interfacing

Interfacing is generally not needed with double cloth — the double-layer construction provides its own body and structure. When selecting a pattern, choose styles that do not call for interfacing.

If interfacing is truly necessary, use a sew-in interfacing such as silk organza. Avoid fusible interfacings, which can damage the face fabric under heat.

Pressing Double Cloth

Always use a press cloth when pressing seams. Apply gentle heat and avoid dragging the iron across the surface. Press from the wrong side where possible to protect the face fabric.

Pattern Suggestions

Double cloth works beautifully for structured, tailored garments. Consider:

  • Heavier weights: Coats, capes, hats, gloves, scarves, jackets, vests

  • Medium weights: Skirts, structured dresses, blazers

  • Lighter weights: Shift dresses, A-line skirts, elegant blouses

Choose patterns with clean, simple lines — the fabric itself is the statement.

Shop Double Cloth Fabric by the Yard

EOS Fabrics carries a curated selection of designer and deadstock double cloth fabrics imported from top mills. Browse current stock!