Sheer Silk Fabric: How to Sew It
Sheer silk is the most elegant fabric EOS sells, and one of the most rewarding to sew once you accept its central rule: think small. Small needles, small stitches, small seams, small hems. A sheer silk garment is cool in summer, layers beautifully in winter, and has moved from strictly formal wear into everyday wardrobes. Here is how to handle it, with expert tips from sewing instructor Shannon Gifford.
What is sheer silk fabric?
Silk sheers are among the most elegant of fabrics. No other fabric conjures up images of luxury as readily as silk! A garment made of sheer silk is cool to wear in hot weather. It can layer with other garments for a soft addition to your winter wear. Sheer silk, once used primarily for formal garments, is now a staple fabric for a modern wardrobe!
Pretreatment
Because of the delicate nature of this fabric, hand-washing in cool water is recommended. Use a drop of baby shampoo as the cleaning agent, and rinse the fabric several times to remove all traces of shampoo. Lay the finished garment flat to dry.
Needles and thread
A universal needle, size 70/10 is a good needle for sheer silks. You might also consider a 60/8, which is a very small needle, if your thread will fit through the eye.
Silk thread is beautiful with sheer silks; it can be difficult to locate. If you cannot find silk thread, use an all-cotton thread marked as "embroidery cotton". It is a thin thread, suitable for a fine fabric.
Seams: think small
Think small: small stitches, small seams, small hems. Use a 1.5 or 2.0 length on your standard straight seams.
Try a tiny French seam for your seam finish; stitch the seam wrong sides together, using a 3/8" seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8" and press to one side. Fold the fabric right sides together and stitch your final seam at ¼" to encase the raw edges.
If you're feeling adventurous, make the French seam even smaller. Stitch the first pass of the seam at ½", trim and press. Turn right sides together, and stitch at 1/8".
For curved seam areas, such as armholes, use a Hong Kong finish or binding.
Two hems for sheer silk
Hems in sheers are prettiest if they are small.
Method one. Stitch a row of machine basting ¼ inch from the raw edge. Using this basting as a guide, fold the hem to the wrong side and press. Stitch very close to the folded edge, using a 1.5 stitch length. Stitch a second row about a hair's distance from the first row of stitching. Remove basting threads. Trim the raw edge close to the stitching.
Method two. Stitch the same guideline of basting and press the hem to the wrong side. Stitch close to the edge; remove basting. Trim the raw edge. Then roll the hem to the wrong side, covering the raw edge. Stitch again, close to the edge.
Interfacing
Sew-in interfacing is the best choice for sheers. Use a layer of the fabric itself as an interfacing, or choose silk organza in a compatible color.
What to make with sheer silk
Shirts, drapey skirts, dresses, tops, full or drapey pants, ruffled garments, full sleeves, scarf-type details.
Creative possibilities
Combine your sheers with beading, ribbon embroidery, or trims for elegant embellishment. Use sheers as individual parts of a heavier garment. For instance, a wool jacket with a sheer, draped collar would be a beautiful combination.
Additional tips
Use a delicate touch when sewing with sheers. If you find the fabric to be slippery, use a layer of lightweight tear-away or wash-away stabilizer between the fabric and the feed dogs. Gently remove the stabilizer after stitching. Save the selvedge scraps of your sheer silks to use as stabilizers for other garments.
More on sheers and silk
For sheer fabrics of every fibre, see the sheer fabric guide. For silk in general, see the silk fabric guide, or the guides to silk charmeuse and silk mesh.
Shop sheer silk
Browse the silk fabric collection at EOS, including the special-order 100% silks in 98 colors. Back to all fabric care guides.
FAQ
What is sheer silk fabric?
Lightweight, semi-transparent silk — light enough to see through, with a floating drape. Used for overlays, scarves, blouses and layered dresses.
What needle do you use for sheer silk?
A universal 70/10, or a 60/8 if your thread will pass through the eye. Silk thread is ideal; fine cotton embroidery thread is the practical substitute.
How do you seam sheer silk?
A tiny French seam. Stitch wrong sides together at 3/8", trim to 1/8", press, turn right sides together and stitch at ¼" to enclose the edges.
How do you hem sheer silk?
Small. Baste ¼" from the edge as a guide, fold and press, then stitch close to the fold at 1.5 length — either doubling the stitching or rolling the edge under once more.
Can you wash sheer silk?
Hand-wash in cool water with a drop of baby shampoo, rinse thoroughly and dry flat.