Setting a Sleeve and Finishing the Lining

If the sleeve has a vent, sew the sleeve seam and finish the vent. Quilt the sleeve as you did for the body of the garment. Baste the second seam closed if it is a two piece sleeve. Baste the sleeve into the garment for a fitting. Determine the finished sleeve length. Permanently sew the sleeve seam. Hem the sleeves as per the hemming instructions. Finish the lining seam by hand using the same technique that was used for the side seams.

Tweed and bouclé fabrics ease extremely well. If there is a lot of ease in the sleeve cap, run a gathering thread along the sleeve cap and pull up to fit the armhole. Shape the sleeve cap using a bit of steam from the iron. Pin the sleeve into the armsyce and baste. Use a backstitch to set the sleeve by hand. The seam allowance, which was 1" wide can now be trimmed down to 5/8". At the underarm, the seam allowance can be trimmed down to 3/8". The seam allowance at the underarm remains standing up, while the rest of the armsyce seam allowance can be steamed and finger pressed towards the sleeve. Sew in a small shoulder pad and sleeve head as per these instructions.

After the shoulder pad and sleeve head are inserted, finish the shoulder seam of the garment lining using this method: smooth the front lining over the shoulder pad. Pin along the seam line. Fold the back seam allowance under to meet along the seam line, baste and fell-stitch to hold. Baste the lining to the garment around the armhole.

Setting a Sleeve and Finishing the Lining

Bring the front lining forward over the shoulder pad and pin into place.

Bring the sleeve lining up to the seam line of the armhole. Take care not to pull it too tightly. Ease in the extra fullness around the sleeve cap. At the underarm allow a little extra lining to come up and over the sleeve allowance and prevent it from pulling. Baste the sleeve lining in place and fell stitch to hold.