Wool Fabric: Types, Sewing Guide, and How to Choose

Wool is the fabric that taught tailoring how to work. It takes shape from steam, holds that shape through wear, and forgives more than almost anything else under the needle. Coating is a medium-weight wool or wool blend fabric that is used to make outerwear. Some coatings are also perfect for suit jackets, pants and skirts, as well. These fabrics are buttery-soft, warm, and come in beautiful colors and elegant neutrals. A beautiful coat is a joy to wear, and these fabrics will add to your joy! Below is how the main wool fabrics differ, and how to handle each.

What Is Wool Fabric?

Wool is the fleece of sheep, spun into yarn and then woven or knitted. It is warm for its weight, naturally water-resistant, resists wrinkling, and — uniquely useful to a sewist — it can be moulded permanently with steam, which is what makes real tailoring possible. Related fibres from other animals, such as mohair from the Angora goat, are handled similarly and are covered below.

Wool fabrics are usually described by weight and construction rather than by fibre alone, which is why the same word covers everything from a gauze you can see through to a coating you could stand up on its own.

Types of Wool Fabric

• Wool suiting — mid-weight, tightly woven, stable. Gabardine, twill, tropical weight. The tailoring workhorse.

• Wool coating — heavier, softer, often brushed or felted. For coats, capes and unlined jackets.

• [Wool gauze](https://eosfabrics.com/pages/wool-gauze) — loose, open weave; airy and semi-sheer, for soft unstructured layers.

• [Mohair](https://eosfabrics.com/pages/mohair) — Angora goat fibre, lustrous with a fur-like halo, in both woven and knit yardage.

• Boiled and novelty coatings — felted or surface-decorated wools, covered in their own section below.

• [Tweed](https://eosfabrics.com/pages/tweed-fabric) — woven from pre-dyed yarns for a flecked, multi-tonal surface.

Pretreatment

Dry cleaning is recommended.

Needles and Thread

Universal needles, size 80/12, or sharps (currently packaged as "quilting" needles), size 75/11. Use cotton, cotton/poly, or all polyester thread for these fabrics. For decorative effects, use a thicker thread (such as topstitching thread) or two strands of embroidery thread run through the needle at the same time.

Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems

Standard straight seams, medium length (2.5) are suitable for most seams in coatings. For topstitching, lengthen the stitch to 3.5 or longer, so the threads will be visible. Hem with hand or machine stitching, whichever you prefer for your project. Seam finishes can range from bindings, fold-over braids, piped edges, seam tape, or serging with a 3 thread balanced seam. A full lining in your garment will eliminate the need for seam finishes.

Interfacing

A weft-insertion fusible, such as whisper weft, is a good choice for tailored items. Cut this interfacing with the grain if you want structure in the garment, or on the bias if you want a softer effect. If you prefer a sew-in interfacing, use washed cotton muslin. Or, if you want a warmth layer, use a layer of cotton flannel that has been washed three times in hot water to prevent future shrinkage.

Pattern Suggestions

Coats, jackets, skirts, cardigans, pants.

Shaping Wool with Steam

Wool can be beautifully shaped with your iron and steam. In areas that require easing, run a row of machine basting and draw it up to the required smaller length. Take the fabric to the iron and steam out the wrinkles. It's almost like magic!

Felting Wool Coatings

Some wool coatings will felt nicely, for an even more cushiony feel. If you choose to do this, purchase additional yardage to accommodate the shrinkage. Pretest by washing a small sample, at least 10 inches square, to see if you like the results. Wash in hot water and dry in a hot dryer. This causes the fibers to pack together more densely; in some cases, it will eliminate ravelling and/or the need to line a garment.

Novelty and Boiled Wool Coatings

Boiled wool is wool that has been deliberately felted, producing a dense, non-ravelling cloth with the body of a coating and the softness of a sweater. A closely related family is the scramble-faced novelty coating: a medium weight, densely knit or woven background, with assorted yarns applied to the surface in a swirled, artistic design. You'll see it in a great variety of applications, from garments to accessories. Both are handled the same way.

Pretreatment: Treat as for a fine sweater; hand-wash, lay flat to dry.

Needles and Thread: Use stretch needles, size 75/11, for construction. Cotton covered polyester or all polyester threads are the best choices for this fabric.

Seams and Hems: Even though many of these fabrics are on a knit backing, they behave in many ways like a woven fabric. Because of this, I recommend a straight stitch for construction, but lengthen the stitch to 3.0 or 3.5. Hems and seams will not require finishes, as the fabric does not ravel. However, I prefer to use a rayon seam tape to edge the hem for a clean appearance. Hand hem using a catch stitch, or machine hem using topstitching or a blind hem.

Interfacing: This fabric has a lot of inherent strength, so test any areas that you might think need interfacing. In most cases, interfacing will not be necessary. If you do feel that additional strength is needed, use a sew-in fabric such as washed linen (cut on the bias), or cotton batiste (again, cut on the bias). The bias cut will help maintain the slight stretch of the knit fabric.

Pattern Suggestions: Simple lines are best. Current ready to wear shows this fabric in vests, coats, simple jackets, and straight or a-line skirts. You might also consider making a great accessory like a purse or hat from this fabric!

Managing bulk: To avoid bulk, think through your project and target areas which have double layers of fabric. Use one layer of scramble fabric and one layer of a lighter weight fabric; for instance, instead of a double layer of the scramble for a collar, make the undercollar of lining fabric.

Creative possibilities: Pair this fabric with leather or suede accents, or use fold-over braid to trim the edges.

Tropical Wool Suiting

If you are looking to make a classic, trans-seasonal garment which will last for years, choose a tropical wool suiting as your fabric. This fabric is light in weight, and behaves beautifully while sewing. Tropical wool is timeless and elegant, and very easy to sew. Some modern wool suitings are blended with lycra for comfort. Because of its stability, it is a good beginning sewing choice; because of how it performs, it is a favorite choice of advanced sewists as well.

Pretreatment. Dry cleaning is recommended for wool suitings. If you must machine wash, use a delicate cycle and lay flat to dry.

Needles and thread. Size 75/11 universal needles work very well in tropical wool. Use cotton, cotton/polyester, all polyester, or silk thread.

Seams, seam finishes and hems. Straight seams, 2.5 length, are excellent in this fabric. Hems can be done by hand or by machine, using either a topstitching hem or a blind hem. Seam finishes can be accomplished with a 3-thread balanced serger stitch, or by zigzagging over the edge of the seam allowance. You may also choose to bind the seam allowances with rayon seam tape or bias strips of thin fabric. Of course, if your garment is lined, seam finishes will not be necessary.

Interfacing. Your interfacing choice will be determined by the type of garment and the positioning of the interfacing. A weft-insertion interfacing is an excellent choice for a classic, tailored jacket. For a softer, lighter feel, use So-Sheer or Touch of Gold. For a sew-in interfacing, use silk organza, washed cotton batiste, or hair canvas, depending on the location in the garment.

What to make. Tailored garments such as jackets, suits, pants, skirts and classic sheath dresses. Some creative, avant-garde patterns work well in these fabrics too. Check the pattern envelope for "wool suitings" as a recommended fabric.

Creative possibilities. Embroidery adds a feminine touch to wool suitings. Choose a tone-on-tone design for a subtle effect, or an array of bright colors for a bohemian look. You can also add a soft bit of color by stitching contrast lines of topstitching across the fabric. Wool suitings will often have interesting selvedges which can be used as trim.

Shop Wool Fabric

Browse our wool fabrics by the yard, including suitings, coatings, gauzes and mohair. Want a wool garment guide? Check out our unlined jacket for comfort and style tutorial.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is wool fabric?

Cloth woven or knitted from sheep's fleece. It is warm for its weight, wrinkle-resistant, and can be permanently shaped with steam.

What is the difference between wool suiting and wool coating?

Suiting is mid-weight, tightly woven and stable, for tailored jackets and trousers. Coating is heavier and softer, often brushed or felted, for outerwear.

How do you care for wool fabric?

Dry cleaning is recommended for most wool yardage and finished garments.

Can you shape wool with an iron?

Yes — this is wool's great advantage. Ease a seam with machine basting, then steam the fullness out over the iron.

What is boiled wool?

Wool that has been deliberately felted so the fibres pack together. It is dense, does not ravel, and often needs no lining.

Can you felt wool at home?

Some coatings will. Buy extra yardage, test a 10-inch square first, then wash hot and dry hot.

Does wool fabric shrink?

It can, substantially, if washed warm — which is exactly the mechanism behind felting. Dry clean if you want to keep the dimensions.

What interfacing should I use for a wool coat?

A weft-insertion fusible such as whisper weft, cut with the grain for structure or on the bias for a softer result.