Satin Fabric: Types, Care & Sewing
Satin is one of the most elegant fabrics in production - the shiny surface, the soft hand, and the luster of the colors are a beautiful addition to any fabric collection. It helps to know that "satin" is a weave, not a fiber: long yarns float across the surface to catch the light and create that signature sheen, with a softer, more muted back. Satin can be woven from silk, polyester, acetate, or blends, and is often woven with a pebbly crepe back that doubles the usefulness of the fabric. This guide covers satin care and sewing in general, then looks at the main types.
Types of satin
- Crepe-back satin - a smooth satin face with a pebbly crepe reverse, effectively reversible (a closer look below).
- Duchess satin - heavier, structured, and very lustrous; the classic choice for bridal and eveningwear.
- Silk satin / charmeuse - satin-weave silk, with the most luxurious drape of all; see our silk fabric guide for the detail.
- Polyester & blend satins - affordable, durable, and widely used for linings, dresses, and special-occasion pieces.
Crepe-backed satin: a closer look
Crepe-backed satin is woven with a smooth satin face and a pebbly crepe back, giving you two distinct looks in a single fabric. The most elegant way to use it: cut the body of the garment from the shiny satin side and the trim (collars, cuffs, bands) from the crepe side. It's an upscale touch - and the trim matches perfectly, because it's literally the same cloth.
How to care for satin
Most satin - crepe-backed and silk satins especially - should be hand-washed or dry-cleaned to keep its luster. To handwash, use a few drops of baby shampoo in cool water, rinse well, then roll the fabric in a towel to remove excess moisture and lay flat to dry.
How to sew satin
Needles & thread
Sharp (quilting) needles are preferred for satin. Use the smallest needle you can easily thread - 70/10 is a good starting point. Cotton, cotton/polyester, all-polyester, or silk threads are all good choices.
Seams, seam finishes & hems
Standard straight seams at 2.0-2.5 length suit most construction. For a bias-cut garment, use a small zigzag (2.0 length, 1.5-2.0 width) so the seam stretches with the bias. Hems can be hand- or machine-rolled, machine topstitched, or hand blind-hemmed. For seam finishes, think thin: a 2-thread serged finish, rayon seam binding, or tiny French seams give the most elegant result.
Interfacing
To keep the fabric soft, use a third layer of the satin itself as self-interfacing. If you prefer a fusible, use the thinnest possible (such as Touch-of-Gold); for a thin, crisp sew-in, use silk organza.
What to make with satin
Blouses, skirts, dresses, quilted garments, dressy tanks and tees, full pants, eveningwear, scarves, stoles, camisoles, and bridal wear.
Creative possibilities
With a crepe-backed satin, use both sides of the fabric in one garment - the body in the shiny satin, the trim in the crepe. It's an elegant, upscale touch, and the trim is a perfect match.
A handling tip
If you have rough hands that catch on the satin, wet them and rub a little salt or sugar over them, then rinse and dry - it smooths the skin enough to stop the snagging.
Shop & related guides
Browse EOS's wovens, and for satin-weave silks (charmeuse and other silk satins) see the silk fabric guide and the silk collection. Back to all fabric care guides.
FAQ
What is satin fabric?
Satin is a weave - not a fiber - in which yarns float across the surface to create a glossy face and a softer back. It can be woven from silk, polyester, acetate, or blends, and is prized for its sheen and drape.
What is crepe-back satin?
Crepe-back satin has a smooth satin face and a pebbly crepe reverse, so it's effectively reversible - many sewists use the satin side for the body of a garment and the crepe side for trim.
How do you sew satin?
Use a sharp 70/10 needle, straight seams at 2.0-2.5 (a small zigzag on the bias), and thin finishes like tiny French seams or a 2-thread serge. Keep interfacing light - self-fabric or silk organza.
How do you wash satin?
Most satins should be dry-cleaned or gently hand-washed in cool water with a drop of baby shampoo, then rolled in a towel and laid flat to dry, to preserve the luster.