Faux Suede Fabric: What It Is and How to Sew It
Faux suede is a high-quality synthetic woven or knitted to mimic the soft, brushed surface of natural suede — and for sewing purposes it is very much the easier of the two. It does not ravel, it washes, it travels well, and it brings a soft textural richness to a garment that few other fabrics manage. Better versions include a little lycra for drape and comfort. Here is how to handle it, with expert tips from sewing instructor Shannon Gifford.
What is faux suede fabric?
Sueded fabrics are a pleasure to touch, to wear, and to sew. These fabrics are generally high-quality synthetics, manufactured to mimic natural suede. They are easy-care, travel beautifully, and will add an elegant textural quality to the garment silhouette. Some of the high-quality versions of these fabrics include lycra for comfort and a beautiful drape.
Faux suede vs real suede
Real suede is leather — the napped underside of an animal hide. It cannot be machine washed, must be sewn with a leather needle and a walking foot, and comes in irregular hides rather than yardage. Faux suede, sometimes sold as microsuede or synthetic suede, is a textile: it comes by the yard, washes at home, doesn't ravel, and sews on a standard machine. Everything below applies to the synthetic.
Pretreatment
Cold water wash, no bleach or fabric softener. Cool dryer, remove when slightly damp.
Needles and thread
Microtex needles will greatly improve your sewing success with these fabrics. Choose size 70/10 for most weights of synthetic suede. Cotton/polyester or all polyester thread are good choices for synthetic suede.
Seams, seam finishes and hems
Use a standard seam, 2.0-2.5 length. Hems can be fused with fusible web, topstitched, or bound with contrast binding.
Seam finishes are not necessary, as the fabric does not ravel. However, if you prefer the look of a finished seam, choose a thin seam binding or a 2-thread overlock stitch on the serger. You might also try a fell seam or a topstitched seam for a sporty finish to your garment.
Interfacing
Use a fusible which does not require high heat (such as Touch-of-Gold or So Sheer). Use a press cloth, and place a scrap of the suede fabric right side up on the ironing board when fusing to prevent crushing the fabric.
What to make with faux suede
Jackets, shirts, skirts, pants, vests, belts, hats.
Creative possibilities
Save your scraps to use as trim for other garments. Sueded fabrics make beautiful bindings or piping, as well as no-fray appliques.
Cutting: use a nap layout
Cut your garment with the "nap" layout for consistency in color and shading throughout your garment.
Shop faux suede
Browse EOS's woven fabrics and performance fabrics for sueded synthetics. Back to all fabric care guides.
FAQ
What is faux suede fabric?
A high-quality synthetic textile made to imitate the soft napped surface of natural suede. Also sold as microsuede or synthetic suede.
What's the difference between faux suede and real suede?
Real suede is leather and comes in hides; faux suede is a textile sold by the yard. The synthetic washes at home, doesn't ravel, and sews on a standard machine.
What needle do you use for faux suede?
A Microtex needle, size 70/10 for most weights, with cotton/polyester or all-polyester thread.
Does faux suede fray?
No. Seam finishes are optional — use them only if you prefer the look.
Can you iron faux suede?
Only at low heat, with a press cloth. Lay a scrap of the fabric nap-side up underneath so the pile isn't crushed.
Do you need a nap layout for faux suede?
Yes. The pile catches light directionally, so cut every piece the same way or the shading will vary across the garment.