Burnout Velvet
Burnout velvet is, quite simply, beautiful. Also known as devore, it's made by chemically cutting away the surface pile from velvet in specific areas, leaving a sheer backing visible behind the remaining velvet design - which may be floral, geometric, or abstract. The result is a luxurious play of opaque pile against transparent ground. Because so much of the fabric behaves like a sheer, it's worth reading our silk sheers guide alongside this one for tips that may apply to your particular piece.
Characteristics
A delicate, drapey fabric combining raised velvet pile with a sheer woven ground. It handles much like a sheer - fine, fluid, and a little slippery - so it rewards small seams, a light touch, and careful pressing.
How to sew burnout velvet
Pretreatment
Dry cleaning is recommended for this fabric.
Needles & thread
Use a universal 70/10 needle. Silk thread is an elegant choice but can be hard to find; an all-cotton thread labeled "embroidery cotton" is excellent for construction. Rayon or wooly nylon work well for special seam finishes or decorative details.
Seams, seam finishes & hems
Think small. Use a 1.5 or 2.0 stitch length for standard seams, and keep finishes small and unobtrusive - a small French seam gives the most elegant result. With a serger, use a 3-thread balanced stitch, adjusting the width as narrow as you can comfortably handle. For hems, a serger rolled hem is lovely (use decorative threads if you like). Without a serger, make the hem a little deeper than you would for a non-pile sheer; a 1-inch folded hem bound with rayon seam binding or thin bias-cut strips works beautifully. A facing cut from a coordinating sheer also makes an excellent hem and prevents show-through - use the same sheer you chose for interfacing.
Interfacing
Sew-in interfacings are best. Use silk organza or cotton organdy in a compatible color, or, in a pinch, a synthetic sheer cut on the bias.
What to make with burnout velvet
Tunics, shirts, blouses, tops, dresses, skirts, evening pants, and formalwear, plus scarves - and anything with shirred or gathered details, ruffles, flounces, or draped details, which all show the fabric off.
Creative possibilities
Add beading or sequins to dress burnout velvet up for formalwear. Pair it with other fabrics of similar weight - sheers, for instance - for interest: use the burnout for the body of the garment and a coordinating lace or sheer for the sleeves.
A tip for handling
Use a light touch with these delicate fabrics. If the fabric is hard to control while stitching, place a layer of lightweight tear-away stabilizer between the fabric and the feed dogs, then gently pull it away after stitching.
Shop & related guides
For more on working with the sheer ground, see the silk sheers guide; to embellish, see the beaded and sequin guides. Back to all fabric care guides.
FAQ
What is burnout velvet?
Burnout velvet - also called devore - is velvet with areas of pile chemically removed to leave a sheer backing, creating a pattern of opaque velvet against transparent ground.
How do you sew burnout velvet?
Use a universal 70/10 needle, short 1.5-2.0 seams, and small French seams or a narrow serged finish. Use sew-in interfacing (silk organza or cotton organdy), and a light touch since it behaves like a sheer.
What needle do you use for burnout velvet?
A universal 70/10, with embroidery-cotton or silk thread for construction.
How do you hem burnout velvet?
A serger rolled hem, or a slightly deeper folded hem bound with rayon seam binding; a facing cut from a coordinating sheer also works well and prevents show-through.