Chenille Fabric
Chenille is an incredibly soft, textured fabric — it has been described as "wearing a hug," and rightly so. The name comes from the French word for "caterpillar," a nod to the fuzzy, raised pile that gives chenille fabric its plush surface and soft sheen. Chenille yarns are fuzzy and soft, often knitted or woven in bright, beautiful colors, and they are equally elegant in jewel or classic tones. Best of all, chenille is very easy to sew. This guide covers what chenille fabric is, how to pretreat and care for it, and exactly how to cut, stitch, and finish it.
What is chenille fabric?
Chenille is a soft, textured fabric made from chenille yarn — yarn with a short pile, or fuzzy "hairs," that stand out from a central core and give the surface its signature softness and light sheen. It can be knitted or woven, and it behaves much like a fine sweater knit, which guides how you pretreat and sew it.
Pretreating and washing chenille
Some chenille can be machine washed in cool water; test your fabric to be sure. I recommend using a lingerie bag for any sweater knit of this type. Lay flat to dry, as you would do for a fine sweater.
Needles and thread
Stretch needles, size 75/11, are the best choices for chenille. Cotton/polyester or all polyester threads are recommended.
Seams, seam finishes, and hems
For a standard machine, use a zigzag stitch (2.0 width, 2.0–2.5 length) for construction. If you have a serger, use a 3 or 4 thread balanced stitch. Hems can be done by machine with a cover stitch, a twin needle hem (use a stretch twin, size 4.0/75), or by zigzagging the hem in place. Seams will require finishing, as chenille tends to shed. If you are not constructing with a serger, use a strip of mesh knit cut ¾ to 1 inch wide and wrap around the seams. Zigzag in place.
Interfacing
Fusibles are not generally recommended for chenille, as they will crush the pile. For those areas where you might need to reinforce, use a layer of jersey knit or mesh knit in a comparable color to the chenille.
What to make with chenille
Garments that look like sweaters: sweater coats, cardigans, tops, tanks, vests, tees, turtlenecks, shawls, ponchos, and scarves.
Creative possibilities
Chenille makes beautiful, textured trim, and looks particularly well when paired with velvet or bouclé.
Additional tips
Use pattern weights when cutting your pattern from chenille; they will work much better than pins. You might consider using bulldog clips or spring-type clothespins to hold the seams together before stitching, as pins will get lost in the pile. And keep a vacuum cleaner handy!
Frequently asked questions
What is chenille fabric?
Chenille is a soft, textured fabric made from chenille yarn — yarn with a short, fuzzy pile that stands out from a central core, giving the surface a plush feel and light sheen. It can be knitted or woven and is named for the French word for caterpillar.
Is chenille easy to sew?
Yes — chenille is very easy to sew. Use a stretch needle (size 75/11) and a zigzag stitch on a standard machine, or a 3–4 thread balanced stitch on a serger, and finish your seams, as chenille tends to shed.
How do you wash chenille fabric?
Some chenille can be machine washed in cool water — test your fabric first. Use a lingerie bag, as you would for a fine sweater knit, and lay flat to dry.
What needle and thread should you use for chenille?
Stretch needles in size 75/11 work best, with cotton/polyester or all-polyester thread.
What can you make with chenille?
Sweater-style garments suit chenille well: sweater coats, cardigans, tops, tanks, vests, tees, turtlenecks, shawls, ponchos, and scarves. It also makes beautiful textured trim, especially paired with velvet or bouclé.
Shop chenille and sweater-knit fabrics by the yard at EOS Fabrics → Sweater Knits · All Knits