Buttermilk Knit Fabric: Complete Sewing Guide
Buttermilk knit fabric is a medium-weight novelty knit with moderate two-way stretch, a printed right side, and a solid-color back — making it one of the most beginner-friendly and versatile knits you can sew.
If you've stayed away from novelty knits, unsure of how to use them, test the waters with a length of buttermilk knit. You'll find this fabric fun, versatile, and easy to sew. It's an excellent choice for beginning sewers as well as experienced makers who want a low-fuss, high-impact result.
What Is Buttermilk Knit Fabric?
Buttermilk knit is a medium-weight knit with moderate stretch in two directions. The printed design appears only on the right side of the fabric; the back is generally a solid color. When stretched, the fabric recovers with a satisfying "snap," making it ideal for travel garments or any piece you'd rather not iron.
How to Pretreat Buttermilk Knit
To pretreat buttermilk knit, wash with your chosen detergent — no bleach — in cold water. Dry in the dryer and remove promptly. Buttermilk knit does not wrinkle, fade, or shrink when machine washed, so pretreatment is quick and worry-free.
Needles and Thread
Use a 75/11 stretch needle for all seams. Poly/cotton thread or 100% polyester thread are the best choices for working with this fabric. Both provide the slight give needed to keep seams from popping under stress.
Seams, Seam Finishes, and Hems
Seams
Choose a zigzag stitch (1.0 length, 1.5 width) to accommodate the fabric's stretch. If you have a serger, a 3-thread overlock with balanced tension works beautifully. Seam finishes are not necessary — buttermilk knit does not fray or run. Trim seams to ¼ inch finished; the narrower seam width is more comfortable against the body.
Hem Options
Hems in buttermilk knit are easy. Choose any of the following methods:
- Fusible seam tape — fuse the hem in place for a quick, no-sew finish.
- Zigzag stitch — permanently attach the hem with a zigzag.
- Twin needle — use a size 4.0/75 stretch twin needle with a 3.5 length stitch for a professional ready-to-wear look.
- Serger rolled hem — use the rolled hem feature of your serger.
- Lettuce edge — stretch the fabric as it feeds through the serger's feed dogs for a ruffled, decorative edge.
- Unfinished edge with edgestitching — some upscale ready-to-wear garments are left unhemmed with a row of edgestitching approximately ⅛ inch from the cut edge. This is a completely bulk-free, fuss-free finish that suits trendy, unstructured styles.
Interfacing
Should your project require interfacing, a cool-fuse, lightweight interfacing such as So Sheer is ideal for buttermilk knits. Always test your iron's heat on a fabric scrap first — some prints may require a press cloth between the fabric and the iron. Match the grain of your interfacing to the grain of the knit for best results.
Pattern Suggestions for Buttermilk Knit
Choose patterns designed for knits rated for "moderate stretch." Great garment categories include:
- Tees and tanks
- Dresses and skirts
- Blouses and shirts with draped details
- Styles with asymmetry, flounced hems, or drawstrings
You can also use woven patterns if the pattern is not heavily structured. Avoid tailored items or snug-fitting pants — the understructure required for tailored garments conflicts with buttermilk's drape, and body-conscious silhouettes will distort and strain the fabric.
Shop Buttermilk Knit Fabric at EOS Fabrics
Ready to start your next project? Browse our current selection of novelty knit fabrics — including buttermilk knits — at EOS Fabrics. We carry discount designer and wholesale fashion fabrics including beautiful knits, wovens, wools, linens, and rayons. New to sewing with knits? Explore our sewing tutorials for more expert guidance.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is buttermilk knit fabric?
Buttermilk knit is a medium-weight novelty knit fabric with moderate two-way stretch. The printed design appears only on the right side; the back is typically a solid color. It recovers quickly when stretched, making it wrinkle-resistant and ideal for travel garments.
What needle should I use for buttermilk knit fabric?
Use a 75/11 stretch needle. Pair it with poly/cotton or 100% polyester thread to maintain seam elasticity.
How do I hem buttermilk knit fabric?
Options include fusible seam tape, a zigzag stitch, a twin needle (size 4.0/75 stretch), a serger rolled hem, a lettuce edge, or an unfinished edge with edgestitching ⅛ inch from the cut edge.
Does buttermilk knit fabric shrink or wrinkle?
No. It does not wrinkle, fade, or shrink when machine washed in cold water and tumble dried. Remove from the dryer promptly.
What patterns work best with buttermilk knit?
Patterns designed for knits with "moderate stretch" — tees, tanks, dresses, skirts, and draped blouses. Avoid tailored or structured patterns.
Is buttermilk knit good for beginner sewers?
Yes. It does not fray, run, wrinkle, or shrink, and it responds well to basic zigzag stitching on a standard sewing machine.