Silk Fabric: Types, Care & Sewing

Is there any fabric more luxurious than silk? This beautiful fiber has a rich history - silk traders once demonstrated its fineness by drawing whole lengths of woven silk through the eye of a needle, yet the same fiber is strong enough to have been used for parachutes. Supple, soft, and surprisingly durable, silk is a pleasure to sew and a joy to wear, with expert tips throughout from sewing instructor Shannon Gifford.

What is silk fabric?

Silk is a natural protein fiber spun into a huge range of fabrics, from crisp and structured to fluid and sheer. Because "silk" covers so many weaves and weights, the right needle, seam, and care approach depends on the specific type you're working with. This guide covers silk care and sewing in general, then points you to the detailed guide for each silk type.

Types of silk fabric

Each of these has its own complete care and sewing guide:

• Silk Charmeuse - lustrous satin-weave silk with a glossy face and soft matte back; fluid drape, ideal for blouses, lingerie, and eveningwear.
• Silk Dupioni - crisp and structured with characteristic slubs; holds its shape for structured dresses, jackets, and decor.
• Silk Jersey - soft knitted silk with gentle stretch and beautiful drape, for draped tops and dresses.
• Silk Sheers - lightweight, semi-transparent silks for overlays, scarves, and flowing layers.
• Silk Mesh Knits - open, airy knitted silk for lightweight layering.
• Sandwashed Silk - washed for a soft, matte, supple hand; relaxed blouses and dresses.
• Onionsilk - a very fine, crisp, lightweight silk for delicate structured effects.

How to care for silk

Dry cleaning is recommended for most silks. If you'd like to be able to handwash the finished garment, test a sample first: handwash in cool water with a drop of baby shampoo, lay flat to dry, then gently press out the wrinkles. If you like the result, pretreat the entire yardage the same way before cutting. And always use a press cloth when pressing silk - a scrap of ivory silk organza is ideal, since you can see through it and it withstands almost any iron heat.

How to sew silk

Needles & thread

Use sharp needles, size 70/10 (or a Microtex in the same size) for these finely woven fabrics. Silk thread is a luxurious choice; if you can't find it, use 2-ply cotton embroidery thread or cotton-wrapped polyester.

Seams, seam finishes & hems

Straight-grain garments: a straight stitch, length 2.0.

Bias-cut seams (such as a flared skirt): a narrow zigzag (2.0 length x 1.5 width).

Seam finishes: enclosed finishes look best - French or fell seams give the most professional result; on a serger, a 2-thread overlock is least bulky.

Hems: machine topstitch, hand blind-stitch, or - beautifully - a hand-rolled hem.

Interfacing

The lighter, the better. Use a fusible made specifically for silk (such as SilkWeight) or a fine tricot fusible. A favorite trick: use a layer of the same silk as interfacing - always the right weight, behaves and wears identically, and matches perfectly.

What to make with silk

Blouses, shirts, draped garments, softly flounced skirts, eveningwear, quilted outerwear, capes and shrugs, and scarves.

Creative possibilities

Quilt two layers of blouse-weight silk with prewashed cotton flannel sandwiched between for a luxurious coat or jacket fabric. French "hand-sewing by machine" techniques work beautifully here, and lace, entredeux, and handloomed trims are gorgeous paired with silk.

Shop silk fabric

Browse the full silk fabric collection at EOS, including the special-order 100% silks in 98 colors. Back to all fabric care guides.

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FAQ

What is silk fabric?

Silk is a natural protein fiber woven or knitted into many fabrics - from crisp dupioni to fluid charmeuse to sheer chiffon - each with its own weight, drape, and best uses.

What are the main types of silk fabric?

Common types include charmeuse, dupioni, silk jersey, silk sheers, silk mesh knits, sandwashed silk, and onionsilk - each suited to different garments.

How do you care for silk?

Dry cleaning is safest for most silks. Some can be handwashed in cool water with a drop of baby shampoo and laid flat to dry - test a sample first. Always use a press cloth when ironing.

How do you sew silk?

Use a sharp 70/10 (or Microtex) needle and silk or fine cotton thread; straight stitch on grain or a narrow zigzag on the bias; enclose seams (French or fell); and keep interfacing very light.