Rayon Double Knit Fabric

Rayon double knit fabric is one of the most rewarding knits to sew: it drapes beautifully, resists raveling, and produces garments that look rich and elegant with very little fuss. Whether you're shopping for double knit rayon blend fabric by the yard or you've just cut into your first yard, this guide covers everything you need to get professional results.

What Makes Rayon Double Knit Special?

Unlike single knits, double knit fabric is constructed with two interlocked layers, giving it a stable, medium-weight body that holds its shape without being stiff. The rayon (viscose) content adds a fluid drape and a subtle sheen that reads as elevated and polished — ideal for garments that need to move with the body while still looking put-together.

Key characteristics:

  • Comfortable, breathable, and easy to care for

  • Does not ravel — seam finishes are optional

  • Recovers well from wear; resists bagging

  • Accepts machine embroidery with the right approach

Pretreatment & Care

Before cutting, pretreat your rayon double knit to prevent post-construction shrinkage.

  • Wash: Machine wash, cold water

  • Dry: Lay flat to dry

  • Bleach: Never

  • Pressing: Use a medium heat setting and always use a press cloth to protect the fabric surface

Needles & Thread

Choosing the right needle and thread is the single biggest factor in clean, professional seams on any knit fabric.

Needles

  • Construction: Jersey or stretch machine needle, size 75

  • Hems: Stretch twin needle, size 4.0/75 or 2.5/75

Thread

  • Construction: Cotton-covered polyester or 100% polyester thread — both have the slight stretch knits require

  • Embellishment: Rayon or cotton embroidery thread works well for decorative stitching

Seams, Seam Finishes & Hems

On a Conventional Sewing Machine

Use a zigzag stitch at 2.5 length / 1.5 width for all construction seams. This gives the seam enough stretch to move with the fabric without popping.

On a Serger

A 3-thread balanced stitch is the go-to choice. It's fast, neat, and provides built-in stretch.

Seam Finishes

Because rayon double knit does not ravel, seam finishes are not required — a real time-saver.

Hems

  • Stretch twin needle or coverstitch hem for a clean, professional finish

  • The same zigzag stitch used in construction works well as a top-stitched hem

  • Avoid double-fold narrow hems — the fabric bulk makes them difficult to press flat and they can look stiff

Interfacing

When structure is needed (necklines, button bands, pockets), choose the lightest-weight knit fusible interfacing available. Always cut interfacing so its stretch direction matches the stretch direction of the fabric.

Pattern Suggestions

Rayon double knit is versatile enough for a wide range of garments. It performs best in styles that benefit from its drape and body:

  • Tops: Tees, tanks, polo shirts, tunics

  • Outerwear: Cardigans, unstructured jackets, capes, ponchos

  • Bottoms & Dresses: Dresses, loose-fitting pants, skirts

Look for patterns designed for stable knits with 25–50% stretch.

Machine Embroidery on Rayon Double Knit

This fabric can be machine embroidered — with a few caveats. Choose a small, not-too-dense design and always test on a scrap first. Placement matters: position embroidery where the garment receives minimal stretch during wear, such as near the shoulder or close to the hem. Tone-on-tone designs are particularly elegant on this fabric.

Shop Rayon Double Knit Fabric by the Yard

EOS Fabrics carries a curated selection of viscose and rayon knit fabrics, including double knit blends sourced from designer mills. Browse current stock to find the colorway and weight that suits your next project.

Ponte knits from EOSFabrics.com – EOS Fabrics |   Viscose Blend Doubleknits – EOS Fabrics

Frequently asked questions

What is rayon double knit fabric and how is it different from single knit?

Rayon double knit is constructed from two interlocked knit layers, giving it more body and stability than a single knit jersey. The rayon (viscose) content adds fluid drape and a subtle sheen. Unlike single knits, it does not curl at the edges and does not ravel, which simplifies cutting and finishing.

What needle and stitch should I use to sew rayon double knit fabric?

Use a jersey or stretch machine needle in size 75 for construction seams. On a conventional machine, a zigzag stitch set to 2.5 length and 1.5 width provides the stretch the seam needs. On a serger, a 3-thread balanced stitch is ideal. For hems, switch to a stretch twin needle in size 4.0/75 or 2.5/75.

How do I wash and care for rayon double knit fabric?

Machine wash in cold water and lay flat to dry — never tumble dry on high heat, as rayon is prone to shrinkage. Do not bleach. When pressing, use a medium heat setting and always place a press cloth between the iron and the fabric to protect the surface.

Do seams on rayon double knit need to be finished?

No. Because rayon double knit does not ravel, seam finishes are optional. This makes it a genuinely beginner-friendly fabric — you can skip the serger finishing step entirely and the seam allowances will remain tidy inside the garment.

What garments sew up best in rayon double knit?

Rayon double knit is well-suited to tees, tanks, tunics, polo shirts, cardigans, unstructured jackets, capes, dresses, loose-fitting pants, and skirts. It works best in patterns designed for stable knits with 25–50% stretch, where its drape and body can shine without requiring tight recovery.