Sequin Fabric: How to Sew It
Every once in a while you need something filled with glitz and glamour - and sequin fabric comes to the rescue. Few fabrics ooze glamour like it. It can be a little intimidating to sew, but with patience and good information you can make a beautiful garment from it. Here's how, with expert tips from sewing instructor Shannon Gifford.
What is sequin fabric?
Sequin fabric is a thin base fabric - usually silk or rayon, sometimes mesh or tulle - covered in overlapping sequins (small, shiny discs) that are stitched or glued on. Because the sequins are the star and the base is delicate, it helps to understand the base first: read our silk guidance to get familiar with how the foundation fabric behaves before you start. And prepare for some handwork - it's well worth the trouble.
How to sew sequin fabric
Pretreatment
Do not pretreat sequin fabric.
Needles & thread
Sequins are tough - you need a heavier needle to actually puncture the discs. Use a denim needle, or the largest-size universal needle in your packet. Test on a scrap to confirm it suits your particular fabric. Buy two full packages of needles; you'll likely break a few.
Seams, seam finishes & hems
Seams: lengthen your stitch length to approximately 3.5 for standard seams.
Seam finishes: these are hard to do well on sequin fabric - you'll be much happier lining the entire garment instead.
Hems: make a faced hem. Cut a bias strip of soft fabric (satin works beautifully) about 3 inches wide, stitch it to the hem with a conventional seam, turn the facing under, and hand-stitch it in place at the top of the facing. Use the same facing technique - with a 1-inch bias strip - at necklines and armholes.
Interfacing
Use silk organza, sewn in by hand, for any interfacing you need. Never fuse anything to sequin fabric - the heat will melt the sequins.
What to make with sequin fabric (pattern suggestions)
Keep it simple - the fabric is the star of the show. Simple dresses, jackets, and tops are ideal. Rule out anything with lots of pattern pieces, darts, or small pieces like collars and welt pockets. If you'll wear the piece under a jacket, use sequin fabric only for the front and a smooth fabric for the back - far more comfortable to wear.
Closures
Buttonholes are next to impossible here. Use button loops made by hand from heavy thread, or a zipper set in by hand.
Working with sequin fabric: the pro method
- Make a muslin test garment first and perfect your alterations.
- Use the muslin as your pattern, thread-tracing the stitching lines onto the backing of the sequin fabric.
- Cut the pieces, then remove any sequins inside the seam allowances so the seams aren't bulky.
- After stitching the garment, run a bead of fray-check / no-fray along the interior of each seam.
- From the front, re-stitch any loose sequins and fill any bald spots by hand.
Give yourself plenty of time, and stitch slowly. You'll likely break a few needles - don't be discouraged. The finished garment will be something you're proud to own and wear.
Shop & related guides
Pairs with our silk fabrics (the usual base) - see the silk collection and the fabric care guides. Working with beads instead? See the beaded fabric guide.
FAQ
How do you sew sequin fabric?
Use a denim or large universal needle to pierce the sequins, lengthen your stitch to about 3.5, line the garment rather than finishing seams, and make faced hems with a bias satin strip. Remove sequins from the seam allowances before stitching.
What needle do you use for sequin fabric?
A denim needle or the largest universal needle in your packet - sequins are tough to pierce, so buy two packages.
Can you iron or fuse sequin fabric?
No - avoid fusible interfacing and high heat, which melt sequins. Use hand-sewn silk organza for any interfacing.
How do you hem sequin fabric?
With a faced hem: stitch a 3-inch bias strip of soft fabric such as satin to the hem, turn it under, and hand-finish at the top of the facing.