Cotton/Lycra Wovens (Stretch Cotton)
The addition of lycra to fabric is a wonderful marriage of form and function: the lycra is the function, adding stretch and comfort to the finished garment. Cotton/lycra wovens - also sold as cotton spandex or stretch cotton - are woven cottons with a small amount of lycra spun in, so they come in endless patterns and weights but all carry that bonus of give. The key thing to remember: even though the fabric stretches like a knit, it's a woven, and you sew it like one.
How to sew cotton/lycra wovens
Pretreatment
Cold-water wash, and lay flat to dry - cotton will shrink in hot water. Do not use chlorine bleach on fabrics containing lycra.
Needles & thread
Treat it as a woven, not a knit. Use a universal 70/10 or 80/12 for most projects; for a denim-weight cotton/lycra, switch to a heavier 90/14. Polyester or cotton/polyester thread are both excellent.
Seams, seam finishes & hems
Standard straight stitching at a medium 2.5 length works well. Finish seams with binding, or serge with a 2- or 3-thread balanced stitch. Hems can be done by hand or machine, coverstitched, or sewn with a twin needle.
Interfacing
Choose a medium-weight knit fusible such as Fusi-Knit - a knit interfacing supports the garment without fighting the lycra's stretch.
What to make with cotton/lycra wovens
Jackets, lightweight coats, pants, capris, skirts, vests, and shirts - anywhere a little give adds comfort to a tailored shape.
The one mistake to avoid
Don't overfit. Because the fabric stretches, it's tempting to fit a garment very close to the body - but that shortens its lifespan. Fit it as you would the same piece in a non-lycra fabric for the best, longest-lasting result.
Shop & related guides
Browse EOS's cotton fabrics, and see all guides on the main fabric care guides page.
FAQ
What is cotton lycra (cotton spandex) fabric?
It's a woven cotton with a small percentage of lycra/spandex spun in for stretch and comfort. It looks and behaves like a woven but has give, making it great for fitted shirts, pants, and jackets.
How do you sew stretch cotton woven fabric?
Sew it as a woven: a universal 70/10 or 80/12 needle, a straight 2.5 stitch, and a knit fusible interfacing (like Fusi-Knit) that moves with the stretch. Avoid chlorine bleach in laundering.
Is cotton/lycra a knit?
No - it's a woven fabric that happens to stretch thanks to the lycra. That's why it's constructed with straight seams rather than the zigzag/serger seams a knit needs.
Why shouldn't you fit cotton/lycra too tightly?
Over-fitting relies on the stretch to close the garment, which stresses the fibers and shortens its life. Fit it like a non-stretch version of the same garment.